Shoe-sewing-machine attachment.



E. N. ANDREWS? SHQE SEWING MACHINE ATTACHMENT. APPLICATION FILED DEC. 8. 1914.

1,203,838. Patented Nov. 7, 1916.

6 SHEETSSHEET I.

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E. N. ANDREWS.

SHOE SEWING MACHINE ATTACHMENT. APPLICATION FILED DEC. 8, 1914.

l ,203,838. Patented Nov. 7, 1916.

6 SHEETS-SHEET 2.

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E. N. ANDREWS.

SHOE SEWING MACHINE ATTACHMENT.

APPLICATION FILED DEC. a, 1914.

1,293,838. Patented Nov. 7, 1916.

6 SHEETSSHEET 3.

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l E. N. ANDREWS.

SHOE SEWING MACHINE ATTACHMENT. APPLICATION FILED DEC.8, I914.

1,98fi3. Patented Nov. 7, 191

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E. N; ANDREWS. SHOE SEWING MACHINE ATTACHMENT.

APPLICATION FILED DEC- 8, 1914.

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E-. N. ANDREWS. SHOE SEWING MACHINE ATTACHMENT.

APPLICATION nun DEC. 8, 1914.

1,203,838. Patented Nov. 7,1916.

6 SHEETS-SHEET 6.

EDWIN n. ANDREWS, or roar DODGE, IOWA.

snon-snwrlve-naonrnn .eTraorrMENT.

Specification ofiietters Patent.

Patented Nov. 7, 1916.

Application filed December 8, 191 4. Serial No. 876,073.

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, EDWIN N. ANDRnws, a citizen of the United States, residing at Fort Dodge, in the county of Webster and State of Iowa, have invented a new and useful Shoe-Sewing-Machine Attachment, of which the following is a specificationl The object of my invention isto provide an attachment for shoe sewing machines adapted to fold the. edge of-a piece of material, such as leather or cloth uppers for shoes, insert a tape between the bodyfof the material and the folded over edge as the folding progresses, and stitch the folded part with the tape retained therein.

It is also an object of my invention to provide means causing the tape inserted under the folded edge of the upper to be fed in folded form itself as it is inserted, to further stiflen and strengthen the edge of the material. The, purpose of the insertion of tape by my attachment is to protect all seams from breaking and to prevent the top of the shoe from becoming baggy or out of shape when. worn, as the. tape will prevent the shoe top from stretching, thereby insuring a snug fit on the foot. For example, in a vamp pump the outer edge of the leather is folded over the tape after the vamp pump has been closed together at the heel seam, the tape and fold being continuous around the vamp pump shoe and across the closed heel seam, thus preventing the shoe from becoming baggy or the seam breaking, and giving the shoe the necessary strength to resist the various operations of manufacture.

It is a further object of mv invention to provident such an attachment an edge clipping. knife mechanism adapted to clip: or slit the edge of an incurve. (see Fig, 22'), which may be set in motion or stopped at the will of the operator.

It is an object of my inventionto eliminate the use of cements in connection with the. folded edges of shoe uppers; and; to do away with the necessity for having to, clip incurves by a separate operation and independent mechanism,

It; is also an. object of my invention to provide an attachment adapted to perform the clipping or slitting operation on the outer edge of the shoe upper immediately preceding its folding over a strip of tape and the stitching of the folded and clipped edge over the tape.

The above and" other objects of my invention will more fully appear from the de scription which follows, in connection with the. accompanying drawings illustrating my invention, in which Figure l is a front elevation with parts broken away to show the eccentric and bracket 90 which it operates, Fig. 2 is an end view of my attachment, with the sewing machine cover plate removed; Fig. 3 is a vertical section showing the driving, feeding and folding mechanism; Fig. 4 is a horizontal sectionon line 4lt of Fig. 3; Fig. 5 is a horizontal section on line 55 of Fig. 3; Fig. 6 is a detail of presser foot and folding tape guide adapted to guide a folded tape; Fig. 6? is a detail in section of a tape folded and applied in the manner employed when the members shown in Fig. 6 are used; Fig. 7 is a fragmentary view showing the edge clipping mechanism; Fig. 8 is a per spective showing the mechanism for throwing the edge clipping mechanism into and out of operative position; Fig. 9 is a detail of the, edge clipping knife; Fig. 10 is a detail, of link 4 connecting the horizontally moving folding mechanism and the vertically moving bar driving same; Fig. 11 is a fragmentary view showing the operation of folding; Fig. 12 isa detail sectional view of tape and upper as the material enters the machine; Fig. 13 is a similar view with the fold started by the folding end of edge turning, or folding wall member 21; Fig. 14 is. a similar detail view of the completed fold with the folding finger engaged thereon Fig. 15 is a detailof the folding. or edge turning, member shown in operation in Fig. 13 Fig. 16 is a 'detail of feed plate 18 positioned. beneath and cooperating with presser feet to feedmaterial, being pivotally movable, by. bracket 90; Fig. 17 is an end; view ofthe above mentioned member and member 19.; Fig. 18. is a. top plan of'member 14.the bracket which pivotally connects hinge connection with folding finger 8; Fig. 19 is a side view of same; Fig. is a perspective of hingeconnection 15; Fig. 21 is a detail of the eccentric 81 for driving bracket 90 shown in Fig. 1; Fig. 22 is a view of material folded and also clipped to allow for a sharp turn or curve; Fig. 23 is a modified form of presser foot and tape guide adapted to be used in place of members illustrated in Fig. 6 and adapted to guide a single thickness of tape, unfolded, such as is shoWn in Fig. 14; Fig. 21 is a top plan of said member.

Like characters of reference indicate like parts throughout the several views.

My attachment combines an edge folding mechanism and an edge clipping or slitting mechanism with a sewing machine. In my edge folding mechanism I provide a folding bar connection 1 having its upper end connected to the eccentrically moving mechanism shown in Fig. 1, which travels in an approximately circular path and drives member 1 in an up-and-down movement 7/32ds of an inch. A folding bar 3 is pivotally attached to member 1 by hinge screw 2. A collar connection 5 is attached to folding bar 3 by pinch screw 6. A folding bar link 1 is provided having a pin 4 on its upper portion by which it is connected to collar connection 5. A stud screw 7 connects folding finger 8 to the bifurcated hinge connection 15. Stud screw 7 passes through the lower end of folding bar link a and en gages in the upper end of hinge connection. 15. It also passes through the slot 8 of folding finger 8. Folding finger 8 has a sleeve connection with sleeve member 9, as illustrated in Fig. 8. Sleeve member 9 is attached to feed plate 18, and is moved from front toward back of sewing machine by pivotally-moving bracket 90. Folding bar 3 reciprocates vertically in bearings 89 which are mounted on the upper end of pivotallymoving bracket 90. Thus bracket 90 moves bearings 79 from front to back synchronously with the front to back movement of feed plate 18. Sleeve member 9 is connected to feed plate 18 by hinge pin 11 in sleeve hinge bracket 10. Hinge connection 15 is attached to hinge bracket 14 by pin 16, and to feed plate 18 by two screws. Sleeve memher 9 is provided with an adjusting thumb screw 13 and a presser spring 12, as illustrated in Fig. 3, which keeps folding finger 8 in its proper position.

Members 2 to 16, inclusive and 18 are all operatively connected to folding bar connection 1, which in turn is operatively con nected with eccentrically driven mechanism, as illustrated in Fi 2, causing member 1 to reciprocate vertically 7/32ds of an inch. This operation causes folding finger 8 to travel from right to left a like distance, at

the same time traveling from front toward back of sewing machine as tape is fed toward the back of the sewing machine.

Feed plate bridge 19, normally a part of the sewing machine, is attached by two screws and is mounted directly under throat plate 20. On it slides the feeding mechanism. Feed plate 18 has an orifice at its right hand end for a screw by which it is attached to the feed actuating mechanism of the sewing machine. The feeding end of feed plate 18 protrudes upward through throat plate 20. A portion of throat plate 20 rests upon and the underside acts as a slide plate for the feeding end of feed plate 18. Consequently feed plate 18 is limited to a horizontal movement, traveling from front to back. Folding finger 8 simultaneously moves from right to left in its sleeve bearing 9. A small set screw 17 shown in Fig. 3, engaging pin 16, holds it in place, it in turn securing hinge bracket 14 (see Figs. 18 and 19), to hinge connection 15.

I provide a tape guiding presser foot 26 of original design, which is adapted to be attached to presser bar 77, the latter not my invention, and which 'runs through a bushing attached to the frame of the machine. A vertical movement only is had. 1 provide an alternating presser foot 27 of original design, illustrated in Fig. 2, pivotally attached to bar 78 by hinge pin 30 and normally pressed to its lowermost position, as illustrated in Fig. 4:, by a small spring 31. Alternating presser foot 27 is mounted to bar 7 8 by means of bracket 28 and hinge pin 30, the bracket 28 being fastened by bracket screws 29. Tape guiding presser foot 26 and alternating presser foot 27 have an alternate up'and-down movement. Needle bar and presser bar 7 8 carrying alternating presser foot 27, travel up anddown' in their bearings 7 9, the latter being mounted on the upper end of pivotally swinging bracket 90.

Member 90, as illustrated in Fig. 1, is pivotally mounted to the sewing machine by 7 suitable pivotal means, as at 72 and 73. Member '90 is provided with a clamp extension 84, which engages rod 88, which in turn is engaged by sleeve 82. Sleeve 82 is engaged with eccentric strap 80 which encircles and is actuated by eccentric 81, driven from the main shaft in the arm of the machine. Thus member 90 is actuated in a pivotally swinging path from front toward back of sewing machine, thus feeding along the material under the presser feet. Members 77, 78, 79, 90, 8 1, 83, 82, 80 and 81 normally constitute a part of the sewing machine, but are put to a new use by their combination with my attachment.

Feed plate 18 is attached to and actuated by the lower end of the pivotally swinging bracket 90, as illustrated in Fig. 3, screw a bracket 90, and

184 being the preferred fastening means. Presser bar 78 with presser foot 27, needle bar 70, and feed plate 18, by reason of their attachment to pivotally swinging bracket 90, more in unison from front to back.

Folding bar 3, in, bearings 89, is attached to the upper end of pivotally swinging members 3 to 18 inclusive, all being operatively connected with member 90, move in unison from front to back. Folding bar connection 1, attached to the eocentrically operating mechanism shown in Fig. 2, travels up and down 7 /32ds of an inch.

Referring to Fig. 3, the lower part of folding bar link 4 is attached by screw 7 to the upper part of hinge connection 15, screw 7 also engaging in slot '8 of folding finger 8. It follows that when the upper part of folding bar link 4 is moved up and down, the folding finger 8 moves horizontally from right to left, besides having a front to back path oftravel. The folding operation is clearly illustrated in Fig. 11, and is also shown in Fig. 13, Fig. 11 further shows the relation of edge guide 24L to the material guided and folded. Edge guide 24, which is slotted at one end, is adjustably mounted by .means of edge guide screw 25, as shown in Figs. 4 and 5, The desired width of fold is obtained bvn eans of edge guide 241 in connection with edge turning or folding wall member 21, which is adjustably mounted, being engaged by screws 21 and is provided with a suitable folding end 22, as illustrated, Folding finger 8 is shown resting on: folding wall member 21. r

Then the material to be folded, as shown in Fig. 11, is moved by the feeding members, folding finger 8 moves from right to left, and in moving turns or folds the edge of the material operated on, illustrated in Figs. 11, 6? and 1,4, holds there until folding finger 8 and alternating presser foot .27, with the needle which is traveling toward its lowest point, feed the material, as it is thus folded, the required length of stitch in a movement toward the back of the machine. At this point presser foot 26 comes in contact with the; material; alternating presser foot 27, and also the needle, are raised. up and also swung forward preparatory to repeating the operation of descendingon the material. Presser foot 26 moves in its hearings in a vertical direction only; while alternating presser foot 27, with needle bar 70,,has a motion which, while the. pressure on the material is alternating with presser foot 26, resembles that of a circle approximately, or its path of travel may be described as backward the length of the stitch, then up and forward, then down. The needle and alternating presser foot 27 have a like motion.

Presser foot 26 is provided with a slotted end, which provides the necessary means for guiding a tape in its downward course. The tape passes under the said presser foot 26 toward the needle, which needle having passed through the tape its backward movement draws the tape to a taut straight line under the alternating presser foot 26 and toward the back of the machine. When the tape is engaged by the needle, its line of travel is from front toward back, with its right edge forming a straight line, an adjustable distance to the right of the needle. The material to be folded enters upon its folding operation by being placed under the tape and presser foot, with its edge to be folded extending the desired distance to the guided by presser foot 26 and engaged by the needle as described. Folding finger 8 having been actuated by the folding mechanism, travels horizontally toward the adjusted tape line, pressing the outer edge of the material to be folded over the tape. The tape so guided and engaged by the needle is by operation of the needle drawn to a substantial and taut adjustable straight line, which enables folding finger 8, by its horizontal motion to complete the folding operation which has been started, when the material to be folded comes in contact with folding wall member 21. I provide a novel tape-folding member 23, which is provided with a blade 23*, as illustrated in Figs. 6

and at. It also has the function of a presser foot. This element may be substituted for presser foot 26 when a single thickness of tape, unfolded, is to be stitched into its inserted position under the folded edge of the shoe upper. Members 93 and 23 are used only in folding tape before the said tape is inserted between the folded parts of the shoe upper; that is, it guides and folds the tape where a folded tape is to be used. but does not fold the edge of the upper.

In the portion of my attachment adapted to automatically clip or slit the edge of the material operated on as it is about to be folded, I provide a thimble bushing shown in Fig. 8', which screws into the sewing machine, its inner portion forming a bearing to receive hub or bearing end 7 5 of hand lever Hub or bearing end 75 is bored out to form a bearing for stud portion 76 of lever 3%, with stop pin 59 which projects into offset slot 74 in hub or bearing end 75. Thus members 34:, 33 and 32 are lever bearing end 75 engaged at offset slot 74 with stop pin 59 to keep lever 34 in its elevated position, pressing upward against spring 50, and releasing pressure from pawl 41, as will be unt erstood by reference to Figs. 1 and 8. Stop screw 57 is adapted to engage in the slotted portion of lever 32 and thus prevents spring 35 from raising lever 34 and spring more than desired. 1 also provide a resilient hand lever locking member 86 attached to hand lever 32 and having ahooked portion adapted to engage with a pro ecting pin 87 on the sewing machine to retain hand lever 32 in its extreme right hand position, when desired, in which position it causes lever 34 to press downward on pawl 41. Hand lever 32 and auxiliary hand lever locking member 86 are attached to each other by means of a stud screw. Auxiliary hand lever locking member 86 is provided with a partially coiled spring to retain it in its proper position, and effect engagement with projecting pin 87 at its upper end. The lower end of the auxiliary locking member 86 extends clownward slightly out of alinement with lever 32, which lower end on being pressed will release the upper catch portion from engagement with member 87 hen the operator moves hand lever 32 to the right, portion 75 is rotated, and the bottom of offset slot 74 recedes from its position under stop pin 59. Knife starting lever 34 is operated, pressing pawl 41 downward until that member, depressed also by spring 50, engages with bell crank 44, which is supported by and adapted to oscillate on hinge screw 45. A small pawl spring 43, illustrated in Fig. 2, tends to maintain pawl 41 in its proper place in engagement with member 34. Pawl 41 is pivotally mounted in member 40 by means of pin 55, as illustrated. Member 40 is attached to folding bar connection 1 by screw 42, member lbeing actuated as hitherto explained and as illustrated in Fig. 2. Member 40 is capable of a front to back oscillation of approximately 3 /16ths of an inch. I prefer to provide pawl 41 with a beveled face 41 positioned to engage with and move bell crank 44 from its lowered to its raised position with the forward movement of the pawl 41 but parting therefrom with the reciprocating movement of pawl 41 toward the back of the sewing machine. The upper arm of bell crank 44 is adapted to engage with the slotted portion of pawl 41 when the latter is in its lowered position. Attached to the lower arm of bell crank 44 is a link 47 which is operatively connected with stud 46, the latter in turn being attached to knife bar 37, as illustrated in Fig. 7. Knife bar 37 is mounted in bracket 39, which in turn is attached to the sewing machine by screws as shown in Fig.

7. I also provide a pinch screw 58 to engage the pinch end of stud 46 to knife bar 37. The lower end of link 47 is a sleeve into which stud 46 enters, as shown in Fig. 7. provide an adjusting way block 48, shown in Figs. 2 and 7, a projection 47" of link 47 slides, link 47 having an up-and-down motion. Screws 49 are provided, by loosening or tightening which the desired adjustment between members 47 and 48 may be obtained.

A casing 38 for knife bar spring 56 is provided under the lower part of link 47, this spring tending to maintain members 37, 46, 47 and 44 in their elevated position, when pawl 41 is also in elevated position. Engaged to knife bar 37 is a collar 60, secured by pinch screw 61. It prevents spring 56 from pushing knife bar 37 up more than is allowed by stop collar 60 on its comingin contact with the bottom of knife bar bracket 39. A cutter block 53 is attached to the table portion of the sewing machine by screw 54, as shown in Figs. 4 and 5. Edge clipping knife 51, shown in detail in Fig. 9, is adjustably attached to knife bar 37 by screw 52 as illustrated in Fig. 7.

In operation the material to be folded is fed under tape guiding presser foot 26 and alternating presser foot 27, with the edge guided up to edge guide 24, the edge to be folded passing over cutter block 53. To put the edge clipping knife 51 into operation, the operator pushes hand lever 32 to the right. slotted portion of pawl 41 to engage the up per arm of bell crank 44, which through link 47, stud 46, knife bar 37, and edge clipping knife 51 starts the edge clipping operation, knife bar 37 being reciprocated vertically with the reciprocating motion transmitted to it from bell crank 44, which receives its reciprocating movement from pawl 41, member 40 and folding bar connection 1, the latter being actuated by eccentrically driven mechanism from the main shaft of the sewing machine. VVhen'it is desired that edge clipping knife 51 stop its operation, hand lever 32, which has been held in its extreme right hand position by hand lever locking member 86 engaging with pin 87, is released and returned to its normal position by the action of spring 35 pressing to the left against it. As hand lever 32 is returned to its normal position, offset slot 74 comes into contact with pin 59 on stud 76 of lever 34, raising the starting lever.

moved into its elevated position causes pawl 41 to release bell crank 44. That number, actuated by spring 56 (through its operative connection with stud 46 and link 47 may be returned to its elevated and disengaged position as related to pawl 41; or if not returned by reason of the spring 56 not exerting a having a groove 48, in which Thereupon lever 34 causes the,

The latter on being sufficient degree of pressure for this purpose, is returned to the position described by pressure exerted by beveled face ail of pawl 41 with the immediately succeeding back-toward-front movement of that member, bell crank 44 thereafter being retained in this disengaged position by the action of spring 56 through the operatively connected elements above described, until the slotted portion of pawl ll is again brought into engagement with the upper arm of the crank member 44. It will be observed that the edge clipping mechanism may be thrown into or out of operation while the folding mechanism is in operation, so that the clipping may be commenced and discontinued at any desired moment, as the work requires, without delaying or interfering with the stitching and folding operations. It will of course be understood that the character of the tape and uppers operated on may vary to any extent. Also, modifications in details of construction not constituting a departure from the required mode of operation are within the contemplation of my invention.

Having thus described my invention, what I claim as new, and desire to secure by Let 'ters Patent, is

1. In a device of the class described, eccentrically driven vertically actuated reciprocating means, a horizontally movable folding finger linked to the aforesaid means, means for adjusting same, and horizontally reciprocating means cooperating with the mechanism vertically reciprocating tape folding and guiding means, reciprocating means operating in conjunction therewith to feed along material operated on, reciproeating folding means moving in unison with the feeding means, and means for adjusting same.

4. In combination with stitch-forming mechanism, edge slitting means located in advance of and operatively connected with folding mechanism, vertically reciprocating tape folding and guiding means, means for feeding the material operated on, horizontally reciprocating folding means operating in conjunction with the feeding means,

means for guiding the edge of the material and starting the fold, and means operatively connected with the aforesaid mechanism for slitting the edge of the material in advance of the folding operation.

5. In combination with stitclnforming mechanism, slitting means for cutting spaced slits in the edge of the material operated on located in advance and operatively connected with folding means, adjustable tape folding and guiding means, adjustable means for feeding material operated on, said means including alternating presser foot means, edge folding means operating in conjunction with the feeding means, resiliently pressed adjusting means, edge guiding means for guiding the edge of the material operated on and starting the fold, and means operatively connected with the aforesaid mechanism for cutting spaced slits in the edge of the material operated on for the purposes described.

6. In combination with stitch-forming mechanism, slitting means for cutting spaced slits in the edge of the material operated on located in advance and operatively connected with folding means, adjustable tape guiding means, adjustable means for feeding material along as it is folded, edge folding means operating in conjunction with the feeding means including alternately operating presser foot members, edge guiding means adapted to start the fold, adjusting means in conjunction with the aforesaid elements and edge slitting means operatively connected with the aforesaid mechanism and positioned to operate on the edge of the material in advance of its folding.

7 In combination with stitch-forming mechanism, adjustable tape guiding means, adjustable edge guiding means for guiding material to be folded, adjustable horizontally-reciprocating pivotal means for feeding the folded material, said means including a vertically operated presser foot and an alternating presser foot.

8. In combination with stitch-forming mechanism, adjustable tape guiding means, adjustable material-edge-guiding means, adjustable horizontally reciprocating folding means, adjustable pivotally moving feeding means, an adjustable edge clipping knife positioned to slit the material in advance of its folding, and means reciprocating same at will.

9. In combination with stitch-forming mechanism, adjustable tape guiding and folding means, adjustable guiding means guiding the edge of material for folding, folding means, adjustable reciprocating feeding means, an adjustable edge clipping knife positioned to slit the material in advance of folding of its edge, means reciproeating same adapted to engage with the feeding and folding means.

10. In combination with stitch-forming mechanism, means including alternately reciprocating presser foot for feeding material, edge-guiding means, adjustable folding means operatively connected with the feeding means, edge clipping means positioned to slit the edge of the material at evenly spaced portions in advance of the folding operation means for throwing said edge clipping means into and out of op erative engagement With the material feeding and edge folding means, and means for locking the edge clipping means in operative position and for releasing same from operative position at Will, substantially as set forth and for the purposes described.

In testimony whereof I hereunto afliX my signature, in the presence of tWo Witnesses.

EDWIL N. ANDRENS.

WVitnesses:

H. G. HELLINGS, P. E. KOLB.

Copies of this patent may be obtained for five cents each, by addressing the Commissioner of Patents, Washington, D G. 

